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How To Stop Oil Burning In Your Car Truck Or Boat





<p align="Justify">How To Stop Oil Burning In Your Car, Truck, Boat Or Tractor! Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime

Thanks for ordering this report. It was a wise decision. Now, in all probability, you won't have to junk that "old friend". You won't have to pay $500 to $740 for major repairs or a new engine. You're about to discover an amazingly easy, economical and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil; to restore compression and end plug fouling!

Before getting down to the "1-2-3's", let be tell you about my experience and what led to the publishing of this little-known information.

Less than a year ago I bought a "cherry" 1967 Chevy half-ton - a one owner Camper Special that had always been garaged and used solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or ding. It had all the "goodies" - air conditioning, tranny cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while camping.

The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner was buying a new truck and asked only $850. I promptly paid without quibbling, figuring I had a real buy. Drove my bargain about 600 miles and it used very little oil. But, the engine was running a bit rough. Time for a tune-up.

The analyser showed average-good compression except for one "low" cylinder. "You're getting close to 70,000 miles," the mechanic remarked, "and about due for a valve job. It's a good investment for a truck in this shape." I agreed.

Paid him $150 for the valve job and the fun began. For the first 20-30 miles I rejoiced in my "new truck" smoothness and power. Then, I noticed that I was being followed - by billowing clouds of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the shop. Carburetor may be out of adjustment? No such luck. That smoke was burning oil. The mechanic stared at the engine and scratched his head. Finally, he pointed at the 110 volt converter. "I got a feeling," he said, "that there is the culprit. Your engine's got a lot more miles on it than you think. They guy you bought it from probably ran the engine plenty while the truck sat, generating juice for his TV, lights, chain saw, you name it."

What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real "Old Smokey!" Drove it that way for a few weeks, but I was burning a quart of costly oil every 200 miles and getting cross-eyed, looking for (and trying to avoid) cop cars. The plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and bucked like a goosed bronco, just a few miles after installing a fresh start.

In short, I was in the position you are now... owning a basically good vehicle you want to keep. I, too, was unwilling to pay the cost of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck at today's inflated prices. Like you've probably done, I went to an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on additive cans that promised to stop oil burning. Picked one up and walked over to the clerk.

"This stuff any good?" I asked. He, more honest than sales oriented, replied: "Dunno. Never heard of it really working." I walked out without buying.

Couple of days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I stopped at a small gas station-garage at the edge of town. The owner, a thin elderly fellow in grease-splotched bib coveralls, walked over while I was hosing-in gas.

"Nice lookin truck," he commented. I nodded. "Saw your smoke,'" he added. "Thinkin of rebuildin the engine?" I replaced the hose in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged, figuring he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn much."

He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit favorable?"

"For what?"

"Fixin what's wrong. Go get a cup of coffee down the street. It'll be in good shape when you get back."

"You've got to be kidding!"

He wasn't. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so, since learning of a new product and devising his own technique for using it, he wasn't doing much rebuilding. "Gettin too old," he complained, "to keep tearin engines down and puttin em back together."

Twenty minutes later, I drove out "memorizing" some instructions. My smoke plume soon disappeared and the engine ran progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still don't add oil between changes and you never heard a better running old truck! Now, here's the "Secret Technique" that venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily do yourself:-

First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of "Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn over fast.

2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother changing a winning combination!

My success wasn't a "fluke" or something possible only with my type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000 miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance. He dropped from an oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning. One of his co-workers, impressed with the "born-again behemoth", bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he sold it at a handsome profit!

Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers, boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That's when I decided to advertise this "know-how" in a small way.

Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor is this report based on any "lab tests". All I know is that this method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a bunch of others. I can't see that there's any "risk" involved, but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this information assumes no liability or responsibility for any vehicle damage resulting from the use of said information, because of factors beyond Seller's control. Use at your own risk."

Look at it this way. You didn't pay $3 for a "testimonial." You invested a small amount for information that can save you hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide you with many months, or even years, of additional service... postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come.

Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin' Seal, for about $2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores.
This Article is Courtesy of <a target="_blank" href="http://www.MalaMaal.com"> http://www.MalaMaal.com</a> - the ultimate Resource for <a target="_blank" href="http://www.malamaal.com/">Instant Download eBooks and Software</a> covering various subjects that include health, self-improvement, diet and weight loss, recipes, love and relationships, Christianity, blogging, RSS, sales and marketing, scripts and templates, search engine optimization, traffic building, etc. You are free to reprint this article in other websites, as it is without editing, as long as the author's biography and all active hyperlinks (including anchor text) remain intact.
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Amy Wright commented ->

Would love to know where you're getting CD2 since Alemite has not manufactured that product since the 1950s. REPLY to this Comment
LD
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